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Sealcoating

A thin sealant layer that pushes back against the sun, the rain, and the slow chemistry that turns smooth asphalt into a brittle, gray patchwork of cracks.

Asphalt is essentially rock held together by a petroleum binder. The sun, the rain, fuel drips, and the freeze-cool nights of January slowly break that binder down, and once it's gone the surface starts shedding small stones, opening hairline cracks, and turning from black to that tired gray you see on twenty-year-old lots. A fresh sealcoat lays a thin protective film over all of that and resets the clock.

We use commercial-grade emulsion or coal tar sealer, mixed and applied at the spec rate the manufacturer actually recommends. No diluting, no spraying-and-go. The surface gets cleaned, the cracks get filled, the oil spots get primed so they don't bleed through, and the sealant goes down in one or two coats depending on what your surface needs.

What the job covers

  • Walk-around and condition check before we quote anything
  • Power blowing and washing to clear sand, leaves, and grit
  • Hot-pour or cold crack fill on hairlines and small openings
  • Oil spot priming so old grease stains don't bleed back through
  • Edge cut-in by hand around curbs, drains, and structures
  • Single or double application of commercial-grade sealer
  • Cones, caution tape, and clear cure-time directions
  • Optional restripe a day or two after the sealer cures

For most driveways, sealing every three or four years keeps the surface looking fresh and adds real years to its life. Busy commercial lots usually want it every two. We can get on a schedule with you so it just happens, instead of you having to remember when it's been too long.

Freshly sealcoated residential driveway

Three reasons our sealcoats actually last

Sealer mixed at the real rate

A lot of crews thin the product to stretch it across more square footage. We don't. You get the manufacturer-spec mix, every time, on every job.

Prep takes longer than the spray

Cleaning, crack filling, and oil priming is where most jobs are won or lost. Cut corners on prep and the sealer peels in six months. We don't cut them.

Cheapest line item on your maintenance plan

A sealcoat costs a tiny fraction of a repave and adds years to the surface. Skipping it is the most expensive thing you can do to your asphalt.

Seal coating FAQ

Every three or four years for a normal residential driveway, depending on how exposed it is and how much sun it takes. Busy retail and restaurant lots usually want it every two years. We'll look at the surface and tell you straight when you actually need to do it again.
Generally 24 to 48 hours, depending on temperature and humidity. We'll cone off the area before we leave and you'll know the exact window before you can roll back onto it.
No. Brand new asphalt needs to cure and oxidize for six to twelve months before the first sealcoat. If you put sealer on too early, the surface oils that are still working their way out will keep the sealant from bonding. Wait for the surface to turn from oily black to a flatter, drier black before scheduling.
Hairline and small cracks get filled as part of the sealcoat job. Bigger structural cracks or alligatored sections are a separate repair line item, because patching them properly takes more than just running a wand over the top. We'll point out anything that falls into that bucket during the walkthrough.

Want us to come look at your surface?

A quick call or note is enough to get us out there. We'll walk it with you, talk through whether it really needs a coat right now, and put a real number to it for free.

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